PRESS AND INFORMATION OFFICE OF THE REPUBLIC OF CYPRUS newsroom@pio.moi.gov.cy Tel: + 357 22 801180 gov.cy/pio/en/ PIOCy/ CyprusPIO PIOCy PIOcy ISBN: 978-9963-50-797-9 ID PRINTING: LITHOSTAR P.I.O. 141/2026 - 1500
3 The Venetian Walls The design of the edition was inspired by the impressive Mediaeval Walls which encircle Lefkosia’s inner city. Built in 1567, at the time of the Venetian rule in Cyprus, by engineer Giulio Savorgnan, these star-shaped Walls feature eleven heart-shaped bastions – Caraffa, Podocataro, Constanza, D’Avila, Tripoli, Roccas, Mula, Quirini, Barbaro, Loredan and Flatro – and three grand gates. Originally surrounded by a moat, the Walls are the city’s most important 16th-century monument, defining the mediaeval Cypriot capital, Lefkosia. Moreover, their construction reflects the hard work of the people of Cyprus, and in particular the inhabitants of Lefkosia, whose hard labour brought this remarkable monument to life.
5 It is a true pleasure to present this guide as an invitation to discover Lefkosia, the capital of Cyprus, a city that embodies both the rich heritage and the modern spirit of our country. From its ancient roots and the unique charm of the Within the Walls City, with its museums, art galleries, churches, and historical monuments, to the city’s vibrant energy as the island’s commercial and cultural centre, there is so much to discover. We invite you to explore Lefkosia’s unique identity as a living bridge between the past and the present, the East and the West. We hope that this guide will help you discover the lure of our city – its people, its captivating blend of cultures, and its enduring spirit – and to deepen your appreciation of Cyprus’ role as a meeting point of civilisations, and as a proud member of the European family. Ms Aliki Stylianou Director of the Press and Information Office of the Republic of Cyprus WELCOME NOTE
DISCOVERING LEFKOSIA Everything you need to know about the capital of Cyprus before you embark on your exploration. 8 LEFKOSIA WITHIN THE WALLS The history, the architecture, and everything that makes the historic centre of Lefkosia within the Walls truly unique. VENUES OF HISTORY Three unique historical spaces in Lefkosia within the Walls. A GLIMPSE OF HISTORY Monuments and sites in Lefkosia within the Walls that have shaped the capital’s identity over the centuries. SACRED HERITAGE The most important historical churches in Lefkosia within the Walls. A WALK THROUGH HISTORY The museums within the Venetian Walls of Lefkosia narrate the city’s history. CONTENTS 10 14 18 24 28 AN ART WALK IN THE CITY A stroll through the artistic neighbourhoods of Lefkosia within the Walls, visiting some of its many craftsmen’s and artists’ workshops. 34 LEFKOSIA: A DIVIDED EUROPEAN CITY A brief history of the 1974 Turkish invasion and the Green Line, dividing the capital of Cyprus in two. 38 8 10 38 40 ART & HISTORY IN THE CITY CENTRE Museums and galleries beyond the Venetian Walls of Lefkosia. 40
48 PARKS & SQUARES Ideal spots in the capital where people go for walks and relaxation. 42 A TASTE OF CYPRUS What makes Cyprus’ gastronomy unique, the dishes one should taste, and interviews with Chryso Lefou, a television chef, author, and researcher of Cypriot gastronomy, as well as Valis Loizides, an architect and gastronomy enthusiast. CYPRUS, THE LAND OF OLIVE OIL The history of the Cypriot olive oil, featuring an interview with Marinos Marinou, expert in olive oil tasting. 44 48 CYPRUS IN A GLASS The history of Cypriot wines and their unique vineyards, narrated by Maria Th. Massoura DipWSET, wine consultant, educator, and writer. HANDMADE IN CYPRUS Cyprus’ long tradition of craftsmanship, featuring an interview with Maria Anaxagora, Head of the Cyprus Handicraft Service. 50 54 44 28 54 THE MYTHS & TALES OF CYPRUS An island whose story is woven through myths and legends. 58 50 42
The Municipality of Lefkosia The Municipality of Lefkosia was established in July 1878, at the beginning of British rule in Cyprus. Until 1882, its administrative area included only Lefkosia within the Walls. Today, Lefkosia is the metropolitan municipality and the administrative capital of the Lefkosia District. It comprises of the municipalities of Lefkosia, Agios Dometios, Aglantzia, and Egkomi. Lefkosia Now Lefkosia is home to the main public service offices, governmental bodies, and key organisations. The Presidential Palace is also located here. Its historic core is encircled by the 16th century Venetian Walls with eleven bastions and three gates. Outside the Walls, Lefkosia has developed into a modern city with universities, embassies, shopping districts and business centres. It is a major educational hub, home to the University of Cyprus and several private universities. Major EU-funded regeneration projects are reshaping the city’s urban landscape. Lefkosia in Numbers (2021 Population Census) Municipality of Lefkosia: 56,848 residents (22.2% of urban Lefkosia) Trikoupi Street The capital and largest city of the island, Lefkosia is the political, financial, and cultural heart of Cyprus. DISCOVERING LEFKOSIA Photos: Lefkosia Municipality
Lefkosia in Numbers (2021 Population Census) Lefkosia district: 351,600 residents (38% of the total population) Lefkosia’s History in 5 points It was first settled around 2500 BC and was known as Ledra, one of the 12 ancient Cypriot kingdoms. In the 11th century, it became the island’s capital and an important administrative and military centre. It flourished under the Lusignans (1192–1489) and was fortified with the Venetian Walls in the 16th century. Conquered by the Ottomans in 1570, it was later transformed under British colonial rule (1878–1960). Since the Turkish invasion of 1974, Lefkosia has been Europe’s last divided capital. The physical division is known as The Green Line or buffer zone and is maintained by the United Nations peacekeeping force. A glossary of useful Greek words: Navigating the city The best way to explore the city centre, around Makarios Avenue and within the Venetian Walls, is on foot. To reach other parts of Lefkosia, visitors can take taxis or buses using the organised public transport system, which starts from Plateia Solomou (Square). For timetables and routes: publictransport.com.cy Tel: 1416 Παρακαλώ (Parakaló) Please / You’re welcome Ναι (Nai) Yes Όχι (Óchi) No Συγγνώμη (Signómi) Excuse me / I’m sorry Καλημέρα (Kaliméra) Good morning Καλησπέρα (Kalispéra) Good evening Καληνύχτα (Kalinýchta) Good night Γεια σας (Geia sas) Hello / Goodbye (formal or polite) Ευχαριστώ (Εfcharistó) Thank you Lefkosia Municipality Town Hall Lefkosia Skylight 9
LEFKOSIA WITHIN THE WALLS WALKS IN HISTORY The Venetian Walls of Lefkosia are a mosaic of the capital’s history, architecture, and civilisations!
The Story The first traces of Lefkosia’s existence date back to 2500 BC. Its earliest recorded mention appears on a clay prism from 672 BC, where it was named “Lidr.” It was later renamed “Lidra” and became one of the 12 Cypriot kingdoms founded by the Greek Achaeans after the Trojan War. In late antiquity, the city was known as “Leukothéon,” or “City of the White Gods,” a name that evolved into Lefkosia, while the Latinised “Nicosia” appeared under the Lusignans. Situated between the Troodos and Pentadaktylos mountains and developing around the Pedieos River, its inland position offered security from coastal invaders. During the period of Byzantine rule, Lefkosia was declared the island’s capital, becoming an important administrative and military centre. Under the Lusignans, Lefkosia flourished with the construction of palaces and churches. The Venetians later constructed the star-shaped walls. Τhe Ottomans captured the city in 1570 and their rule left behind mosques and baths, reshaping the city’s identity. During the period of British rule in 1878, the city expanded beyond the Venetian Walls. Following independence in 1960, Lefkosia became the capital of the Republic of Cyprus. In 1974, Turkey invaded Cyprus and occupied 37% of the island’s territory. Lefkosia became Europe’s last divided capital, split by the Green Line; a physical division known also as the buffer zone. Architecture The architecture of the buildings in Lefkosia within the Walls narrates the capital’s long history. Within the Mediaeval Venetian Walls, there are ancient ruins and Gothic churches from the Lusignan era that were later converted into mosques. Examples include the Cross of Misirikkos in Plateia Faneromenis (Square). There are also buildings with coats of arms engraved in sandstone and houses featuring arches and wooden balconies. Neoclassical mansions from the 19th century stand alongside British colonial public buildings, with the date of construction elaborately carved into the iron door decoration. This mosaic of architecture, interwoven with Lefkosia’s history, has long been home to artists and craftsmen. Beautifully restored houses now attract residents returning to the city within the Walls. EU Funding Following the Turkish invasion of 1974, Lefkosia within the Walls struggled to survive. Cyprus’ accession to the European Union in 2004 provided the island, its capital, as well as the walled city with the opportunity to benefit from funding for development projects, including infrastructure and urban regeneration. European funding helped regenerate and revitalise Lefkosia within the Walls. Examples include the Regeneration & Revitalisation of the Lefkosia Inner City, the Inner Perimeter Redevelopment – Phase A (including Konstantinou Palaiologou Street along the Walls) and Creative Nicosia, which supports creative industries. 11 Venetian Walls
WALKS IN HISTORY The areas: The best way to explore Lefkosia within the Walls is on foot. Route 2: From Plateia Eleftherias (Square), walk towards the pedestrian streets of Lidras and Onasagorou. Turn right into Laiki Geitonia and walk through the nearby streets to visit the small churches and light a candle inside, or continue down Onasagorou to Plateia Faneromenis (Square). Route 1: Starting from Plateia Solomou (Square), head to Pyli Pafou (Pafos Gate) and visit the Holy Cross Catholic Church, the Kastelliotissa Hall, and the Fairytale Museum before walking along the Green Line. Photos: Stefanos Kouratzis Route to follow Starting point Church Sites of interest Limit of area under Turkish occupation since 1974
13 Route 5: From Konstantinou Palaiologou Street, walk straight ahead, passing the Constanza Bastion, and walk along the Walls until you reach the Liberty Monument. Route 3: Starting from Plateia Dimarchou Lellou Dimitriadi (Square), walk along Lidinis Street, head to the New Town Hall, take Palias Ilektrikis Street, and visit the Nicosia (Lefkosia) Municipal Arts Centre (NiMAC). Then turn onto Pentadaktylou Street and head to Ermou Street. Visit the neighbourhood of Chrysaliniotissa and finish at Pyli Ammochostou (Famagusta Gate). Route 4: Starting from Pyli Ammochostou (Famagusta Gate), visit the Melina Mercouri Hall. Then turn left and walk towards the Old Aqueduct. Head down to Adamantiou Korai Street to Plateia Arch. Kyprianou (Square). Then take Isokratous Street, turn onto Patriarchou Grigoriou Street, and then again onto Chatzigeorgaki Kornesiou Street. Finally, turn right onto Plateia Tillirias (Square) and finish at Trikoupi Street.
VENUES OF HISTORY TIMELESS VENUES Discover three truly special venues within the Lefkosia Venetian Walls.
Old Town Hall Nestled within the Lefkosia old town, these historic venues are a part of the capital that proudly preserves its heritage while embracing a vibrant present and an exciting future. Thanks to European Union funded projects, completed and ongoing, Lefkosia’s old town is undergoing significant revitalisation. Each of the three venues, built in different eras, tells a unique chapter from the city’s turbulent yet fascinating past. Old Town Hall Overlooking Plateia Eleftherias (Square), Lefkosia’s Old Town Hall stands on the D’Avila Bastion. This iconic neoclassical building, with its striking marble Ionic columns and surrounding gardens, was constructed in 1930. Originally, it functioned as an entertainment venue known as Luna Park, before later housing the offices of the football club APOEL. In 1944, it was repurposed as the municipality relocated its operations to the building. A major renovation in 1951 transformed its architectural style from colonial to neoclassical, giving it the distinguished appearance it retains today. The following year, in 1952, the mayor’s office officially moved in, marking its new chapter as the permanent seat of Lefkosia’s municipal administration and was formally named the Town Hall of Lefkosia. In 2018, the municipality relocated its operations to the new Town Hall and, ever since, the Old Town Hall has taken on a new role as a venue hosting events. K. Palaiologou Street, Plateia Eleftherias (Square) Tel: +357 22 797000 (Lefkosia Municipality) 15
Mediaeval Hall of Kasteliotissa TIMELESS VENUES Cyprus carried the restoration of the monument with the aim of converting it into a Cultural Centre. Since its inauguration on 5 December 1995, the Mediaeval Hall of Kastelliotissa has served as a venue for cultural events. Agiou Marona Street, Pyli Pafou (Pafos Gate) Tel: +357 22 865889 Mediaeval Hall of Kasteliotissa Located right opposite Pafos Gate, Kasteliotissa Hall dates back to the Mediaeval period, probably around the 14th century. The first mention of this name was made by Stephane Lusignan, referring to one of the churches that existed in Lefkosia in his time, the church of Santa Clara, which was called Kasteliotissa. According to Lusignan, this church was built on the site of a castle that was demolished by the Knight Templars during the siege of Lefkosia in 1192. Although no definitive information regarding the hall’s original function has come to light, its architectural style, in combination with excavation findings, it seems that it was once an integral part of a large and impressive building complex, possibly the Lusignan palace. This palace was demolished by the Venetians, along with the Frankish Walls and numerous monasteries and churches, to make way for the new city fortifications, whose construction began in 1567. Over the centuries, the hall served various purposes: during the Venetian and Ottoman periods, it was used as an armoury, while in 1847, the French historian Louis de Mas Latrie recorded that the hall formed part of artillery barracks, which was converted into a flour mill. From 1901 to 1936, Kasteliotissa Hall was used as a petroleum storage facility. In 1936, it was brought under the control of the Department of Antiquities of Cyprus, which declared it an Ancient Monument of the First Schedule. In 1960, it was turned into a Mediaeval Museum. From 1987–1988, the Department of Antiquities of the Republic of Photos: Stefanos Kouratzis
17 Lefkosia Municipality Multifunctional Foundation (KEEAED) KEEAED is a non-profit foundation that offers personalised employment and entrepreneurship counselling, aiming to support the development and empowerment of Lefkosia’s local community. Its work focuses particularly on the city’s most vulnerable groups, ensuring equal opportunities for all. Services are available both in person and online, and include workshops, training seminars, skills development sessions, networking activities as well as meetings with specialised advisors. The foundation is housed in a beautifully restored two-storey urban mansion dating back to the 19th century, brought back to life with EU funding. The mansion was built by Nicolas Tsamandas, as a gift to his daughter, Maria. Dr Aristodemos Finiefs, Maria’s husband, had his surgery facilities in the mansion. Dr Finiefs was one of the first highly qualified Cypriot doctors during the late Ottoman period. In subsequent years, the mansion was rented out. During the EOKA liberation struggle for independence from British rule (1955–59), fighters used the building as a fort. Consequently, the building sustained serious damage from bullets and its original wooden doors were removed. Following the Turkish invasion of 1974, Rima Maria Outram, Maria’s granddaughter, generously loaned the property to the Republic of Cyprus and the Municipality of KEEAED Lefkosia, on the condition that it be used for non-profit purposes. With financial support from the EU, the Government carried out extensive restoration works, transforming the mansion into a beautiful building that is now dedicated to supporting and enriching the lives of Lefkosia’s citizens. Junction of Trikoupi & Dionysοu Streets Tel: +357 22 797850
A GLIMPSE OF HISTORY WALLED LEFKOSIA MONUMENTS Within Lefkosia’s Venetian Walls stand monuments that tell stories of conquest, culture, and resilience that shaped the city’s identity over the centuries.
19 Mediaeval Venetian Walls These impressive Walls surround the old town of Lefkosia. In the 14th century, during the Lusignan period, the city was protected by large mediaeval forts. The forts were later demolished by the Venetians and, in 1567, engineer Giulio Savorgnan was appointed to design the new Walls. They included eleven heart-shaped bastions, each named after prominent Venetian families including Caraffa, Constanza, and D’Avila as well as three gates (Porta Giuliana, Porta San Domenico, and Porta del Proveditore) adjacent to the bastions. The Walls were surrounded by an 80-metre-wide moat, filled with water diverted from the Pedieos River, that is now used as gardens, parks, sports fields, sculpture displays, and car parks. When the city was under the Ottomans, the Walls were repaired, and in the late 19th century, during British rule, the moat adjoining the D’Avila Bastion was repurposed and became the Lefkosia Municipal Gardens. Pyli Ammochostou (Famagusta Gate) Pyli Ammochostou (Famagusta Gate) is the most prominent of the three main gates in the Venetian Walls and was built in 1567 by Mediaeval Venetian Walls Pyli Ammochostou (Famagusta Gate) engineer Giulio Savorgnan in the Venetian Renaissance military style. It was originally called Porta Giuliana, after the engineer, but was later renamed, as it led to the port city of Ammochostos (Famagusta). Apart from an impressive façade, its vaulted passage features an 11-metre dome, with a circular oculus, similar to that of Rome’s Pantheon, and a wide pathway with rooms on each side. In 1980–81, the Municipality Mediaeval Venetian Walls
WALLED LEFKOSIA MONUMENTS of Lefkosia carried out restoration works and transformed it into one of the most important cultural centres. This led to the Gate earning an Europa Nostra International Prize for conservation in 1984. Famagusta Gate Cultural Centre Pyli Ammochostou (Famagusta Gate) remains one of Lefkosia’s key landmarks and an important cultural centre. Since its restoration in 1981, it has welcomed exhibitions, concerts, lectures, theatre productions, and a variety of events. A recent renovation has provided Pyli Ammochostou (Famagusta Gate) a contemporary facelift, highlighting its beauty, whilst improving accessibility. Athinon Avenue / Tel: +357 22 797660 The Lefkosia Old Aqueduct A few metres away from the Pancyprian Gymnasium lies the Lefkosia Old Aqueduct, the oldest in Cyprus. It was built in the The Lefkosia Old Aqueduct 18th century by the Ottoman governor Silahtar Mustafa Aga, as part of Lefkosia’s original water supply system, in order to divert mountain water to palaces and wealthy homes within the city. The aqueduct started from the Keryneia Gate in the north of the city within the Walls and ended at Pyli Ammochostou (Famagusta Gate) in the east. During demolition works, 11 arches, part of the aqueduct, were revealed and are visible today. Junction of Nikiforou Foka Street & Adamantiou Korai Street Melina Mercouri Hall Located next to the Pyli Ammochostou (Famagusta Gate), the Melina Mercouri Hall is an important municipal venue used for an array of cultural activities, including seminars, small concerts, exhibitions, and performances. When its renovation was completed in 1995, the Hall was named after
21 Pancyprian Gymnasium Melina Mercouri Hall The Archbishop’s Palace the then Minister of Tourism of the Hellenic Republic, Melina Mercouri, in the context of the European Cultural Month. Athinon Avenue / Tel: +357 22 797682 The Archbishop’s Palace The New Archbishop’s Palace stands in an important historic square near the Pyli Ammochostou (Famagusta Gate), right next to the Old Archbishop’s Palace. The Old Archbishop’s Palace, built in the 18th century, featured stone staircases, arches, offices, reception rooms, gardens, and stables. The Great Synod Hall hosted church hierarchs and leaders, while the Small Synod was used for judicial matters and hospitality. It now hosts the Folk Art Museum and the Agonos Museum (Museum of the 1955–1959 EOKA National Liberation Struggle). The New Archbishop’s Palace was built in 1960 by Archbishop Makarios III in a neo-Byzantine style. Other than being the residence of the Archbishop, it also houses the Byzantine Museum, the Art Gallery, and the Library of the Archbishopric. Plateia Arch. Kyprianou (Square) Tel: +357 22 554600 (New Archbishop’s Palace) Pancyprian Gymnasium Opposite the Archbishop’s Palace stands the Pancyprian Gymnasium, the island’s oldest secondary education school. Founded in 1812 by Archbishop Kyprianos, during the Ottoman rule, it was initially named the “Greek School”. In 1893, it expanded and incorporated a lyceum and was renamed “Pancyprian Gymnasium”. The original structure was destroyed by fire in 1920, but was rebuilt in neoclassical style. Throughout its history, the Pancyprian Gymnasium has played a defining role, with students participating in the Greek War of Independence, the Balkan Wars, and the EOKA Liberation Struggle in 1955–1959. On the premises, apart from the classrooms, the Severios Library (est. 1949) is also
housed, holding 60,000 rare works and, in a 12-room building next to it, the Pancyprian Gymnasium Museums are located. Plateia Arch. Kyprianou (Square) Tel: +357 22 466711 The Liberty Monument Across Lefkosia’s Old Aqueduct stands the Liberty Monument, an imposing landmark with a diverse history. Situated on the Podocattaro Bastion, it was erected in 1973 to honour the EOKA fighters who resisted British colonial rule during 1955–59. Designed by renowned sculptor Ioannis Notaras with architectural input from Pefkios Georgiades, the monument features 17 bronze figures arranged on three levels against a white marble backdrop. At its top, the Goddess of Liberty raises her hand in faith and hope. Though originally planned for inauguration in 1974, the Turkish invasion delayed its unveiling until March 2025, 51 years later. Nikiforos Fokas Street Hamam Omerye The impressive Hamam Omerye was built as a gift to Lefkosia by Lala Mustafa Pasha in 1570–71, shortly after the Ottoman conquest, and named in honour of Caliph Omar. Traditionally, women and children under ten used the hammam in the morning, while men attended from the afternoon onwards. The building has a classic Ottoman bathhouse design: a vaulted reception hall with an octagonal cistern that leads through tepid rooms to the hot, domed chamber. Restored beautifully in 2002–2004 under the Lefkosia Master Plan, it received the Europa Nostra award in 2005. Nowadays, Hamam Omerye continues to offer traditional bathhouse rituals. 8 Plateia Tillirias (Square) / Tel: +357 22 460006 web: www.hamamomerye.com WALLED LEFKOSIA MONUMENTS Hamam Omerye The Liberty Monument Photos: Stefanos Kouratzis, Panayiotis Stelikos, Lefkosia Municipality, Hamam Omerye
23 Pafos Gate Laiki Geitonia Nestled inside the Walls of Lefkosia, just east of Plateia Eleftherias (Square), Laiki Geitonia (meaning “Traditional Neighbourhood”) was built to resemble a typical neighbourhood of the 1900s. This traditional urban architecture consists of materials like wood, sandstone, and mudbrick, and features wooden balconies, cobbled-front courtyards, a main square, and tiled arcades. Originally confined to Aristokyprou and Praxandrou Streets, it soon extended to other neighbouring streets. Amenities in Laiki Geitonia include cafés and restaurants, cultural venues, workshops, as well as shops selling traditional crafts and delicacies. Laiki Geitonia was inaugurated on 21 December 1983 and awarded the FIJET Pomme d’Or in 1988. Laiki Geitonia Pafos Gate Pafos Gate, built by Giulio Savorgnan in 1567–1568 and originally called Porta San Domenico, served as Lefkosia’s western entrance and was later renamed, as it led to the city of Pafos. The gate is architecturally simple: a simple opening in the thick wall, topped with a barrel-vaulted roof. Despite its modest design, it boasts a rich history. Under Ottoman rule, it functioned as a military post, while under British rule, its upper structure became the Cyprus Police Headquarters. Recent excavations revealed the original cobbled roadway and remnants of the Arab Ahmet aqueduct, reaffirming Pafos Gate’s place as one of Lefkosia’s most cherished landmarks. Pafos Avenue / Tel: + 357 22 797000
SACRED HERITAGE THE HISTORIC CHURCHES WITHIN THE WALLS OF LEFKOSIA Lefkosia’s history survives on its Orthodox churches, rich in faith and culture. Explore them on foot and discover the city’s spiritual and architectural treasures.
25 Cathedral of Agios Ioannis Located next to the Archbishop’s Palace and opposite the historic Pancyprian Gymnasium, this important cathedral was built by Archbishop Nikiforos in 1662, with a narthex added by Archbishop Chrysanthos in 1779. The church is single-aisled, barrel-vaulted, standing on the ruins of the mediaeval Benedictine Monastery of Agios Ioannis tou Pipi. It is worth mentioning that it is the only church from the Ottoman period to be fully decorated with impressive interior frescoes, dating from the 18th and 19th centuries. Its 18th century wooden iconostasis is considered one of the finest in Cyprus. Plateia Arch. Kyprianou (Square) / Tel: +357 22 554600 Opening hours: Mon–Fri 08:00–12:00, 14:00–16:00, Sat 08:00–12:00 (and during liturgies) Church of Agios Antonios (Dependency of the Holy Monastery of Apostolos Barnabas) This beautiful church was built in the 18th century, during the Ottoman period. Located near the House of Dragoman Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios, it preserves the style of the churches of that period: single-aisled with a tiled roof. When entering the church, one cannot but notice the beautiful, carved wooden iconostasis and the elaborately sculpted stone bell tower. Agiou Antoniou Street / Tel: +357 22 432838 Opening hours: Mon–Sat 07:00–11:00, Call for afternoon hours Church of Panagia Chrysaliniotissa This church, located in the parish named after it and near the Pyli Ammochostou (Famagusta Gate), is considered the most important ecclesiastical monument in Lefkosia. It is the only remaining church within the Walls of Lefkosia that dates back to the Middle Byzantine period. Built by Helena Palaiologina, the Greek-born wife of King John II of Cyprus, it was originally erected as a cross-in-square domed structure. Over the centuries, this L-shaped church has undergone a series of architectural additions which have altered, but not erased, its original identity. Many of its most valued Byzantine icons are preserved and exhibited at the Byzantine Museum in Lefkosia. Chrysaliniotissas Street / Tel: +357 22 430857 Opening hours: 08:30–12:30, 15:00–18:00, closed Wed and Sun Church of Panagia Chrysaliniotissa Cathedral of Agios Ioannis
Church of Agios Kassianos This small church, located close to the Church of Panagia Chrysaliniotissa, was built in 1854 on the site of an older church, according to an inscription on its walls. It has a two-aisled structure, and its most treasured relic is the clerical hat, or “skoufos” in Greek, of Agios Kassianos, which is believed to be miraculous. The Church is well known for the Orthodox Easter services and the Epitafios procession. Agiou Kassianou Street / Tel: +357 22 774947 Call for opening hours Church of Agios Kassianos Church of Panagia Faneromeni SACRED HERITAGE of bishops and priests executed by the Ottomans in 1821. Onasagorou Street / Tel: +357 22 673296, +357 22 660761 / Open Daily: 06:30–18:30 (November to March), 06:30–20:00 (April to October) Church of Agios Eleftherios Hidden on Onasagorou Street, this small church is among the seven dependencies of the Machairas Monastery. Ethnomartyr Archbishop Kyprianos built it in 1804 on land donated by a devout woman, Maria, whose tomb remains in the courtyard. Constructed without Ottoman permission under the pretense of a monastery store, it surprises unsuspecting passers-by with its discreet entrance, leading to an interior adorned with icons, beautiful frescoes, and a date inscription of 1806 above its wooden door. Onasagorou Street / Tel: + 357 22 664737, +357 22 363824, +357 22 680722 / Opening hours: Mon–Sat 09:00–12:00, 16:30–18:00, Sun morning during Liturgy Church of Agios Savvas Built in 1851, it is one of Lefkosia’s most distinctive churches, likely standing on the site of an earlier church that once belonged to the Patriarchate of Jerusalem. The Church of Agios Savvas used to have lodgings that sheltered the homeless, which were later repurposed as the Agios Savvas Urban School. It houses a silver chalice dating from Church of Panagia Faneromeni (Our Lady of Revelation) An important landmark, the Church of Panagia Faneromeni was once the largest Orthodox church within Lefkosia’s Venetian Walls. Built in 1872 on the site of a former convent, where nuns practiced silk weaving, it twice resisted attempts by the Ottomans to convert it into a mosque. This three-aisled basilica, crowned with a lantern-type dome, preserves a few frescoes from around 1930 and an exquisitely carved wooden iconostasis dating back to the 18th-19th centuries. To its east, a marble mausoleum holds the remains Photos: Stefanos Kouratzis, Panayiotis Stelikos, istock
Church of Agios Savvas Church of Archangelos Michail Tripiotis Catholic Church of the Holy Cross During the procession of the Epitaphs on Good Friday, the Churches of Panagia Faneromeni, Archangelos Michail Tripiotis, and Agios Savvas meet at Plateia Eleftherias (Square). 1501, with two handles, each shaped like a serpent, as well as the miraculous icons of Agios Georgios Exorinos and Agios Fanourios. Junction of Aischylou and Agiou Savva Streets Tel: +357 22 755120 / Open Daily 08:00–12:00, 17:00–18:00 (April to September) 08:00–12:00, 16:00–17:30 (October to March, closed on Wed and Sun afternoon) Church of Archangelos Michail Tripiotis Among Lefkosia’s most beautiful churches, named after the parish of Tripiotis, once one of the city’s most densely populated areas. The then Archbishop of Cyprus, Germanos, laid the foundation stone in May 1695 and the church was completed within the same year. This three-aisled domed basilica is regarded as the most important church built during the Ottoman period. Among its important icons and 19th-century iconostasis lies the oldest icon in the church, that of the Virgin Mary holding the Christ Child, flanked by Ioakim and Anna, strongly influenced by 15th-century Italian art. Junction of Archangelou Michail and Solonos Street Tel: +357 22 663601 / Opening hours: 07:00–12:00, open during vespers in the afternoon Catholic Church of the Holy Cross Located near Pafos Gate, this church dates back to 1900 and serves the local and international Roman Catholic community. It was inaugurated in 1902, replacing an older church built in 1642. Its construction was financially supported by the Spanish Royal Family and Franciscan monks. The Spanish influence is evident in the wooden statues as well as the ceiling which is decorated with royal coats of arms. The church has a simple and elegant façade, a circular dome ceiling and ten chapels. The sanctuary was renovated in 1998, adding stained glass and wooden statues of the Virgin Mary and Saint Joseph. Pafos Gate / Tel: +357 22 662132 / Open daily. For mass times: web: www.cypruscatholicchurch.org 27
WALLED LEFKOSIA MUSEUMS A WALK THROUGH HISTORY The museums within Lefkosia’s Venetian Walls reveal centuries of history, artistry, and imagination.
29 Bank of Cyprus Cultural Foundation The Foundation, established in 1984, is housed in the Bank’s former administrative building, dating back to 1936. It presents the Cypriot civilisation in the fields of archaeology, history, art, literature, and the environment through permanent and temporary exhibitions, lectures, publications, and international collaborations. It houses four permanent collections: the Contemporary Art Collection, the Cyprus Map Collection, the Manuscripts and Rare Books Collection, the Engraving, Old Photographs and Watercolours Collection. The Foundation also curates the Museum of the History of Cypriot Coinage and the Αrchaeological Museum of the George and Nefeli Giabra Pierides Collection. 86–90 Faneromenis Street / Tel: +357 22 128157 web: www.boccf.org / Opening hours: Mon–Sun 10:00–19:00 The Leventis Municipal Museum of Lefkosia Step inside this neo-classical building and discover the history of Lefkosia. Established in partnership between the A. G. Leventis Foundation and the Municipality of Lefkosia, this award-winning museum has been Bank of Cyprus Cultural Foundation welcoming visitors since 1989. Through its extensive collections of more than 10,000 exhibits, including maps, documents, paintings, etchings and costumes, the museum presents the history of the capital across seven major periods: Chalcolithic, Byzantine, Frankish, Venetian, Ottoman, British, and modern. There are also temporary exhibitions, workshops, lectures, etc. 15–17 Ippokratous Street, Laiki Geitonia Tel: +357 22 661475 / web: www.leventismuseum.org.cy Opening hours: Tue–Sun 10:00–16:30 Αrchaeological Museum of the George and Nefeli Giabra Pierides Collection The Leventis Municipal Museum of Lefkosia
The Postal Museum The Postal Museum (est. 1981) presents the island’s postal history from the Venetian period to the present day. Housed in a restored mansion, its exhibits include rare philatelic material from the 18th century onwards, such as stamps from the British colonial era featuring Queen Victoria, the 1928 Cypriot series, first-day covers, air letters, postmarks and postal equipment. 3B Agiou Savva Street / Tel: +357 22 304711 web: www.cypruspost.post/en/museum Opening hours: Mon–Fri 09:00–15:00, Sat 09:00–13:00 Ethnological Museum – House of Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios The House of Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios, built in 1793, is the most important example of urban architecture from the Ottoman period. It was the residence of Kornesios, a highly educated Greek Cypriot who served as a dragoman, the official interpreter for the Sultan’s Council and the Orthodox Christian community. Today, the House functions as the Ethnological Museum. At its centre is a courtyard with a fountain, a hamam and rooms. On the upper floor, visitors can see family heirlooms, bedrooms NiMAC WALLED LEFKOSIA MUSEUMS Nicosia (Lefkosia) Municipal Arts Centre (NiMAC) Housed in the city’s original power station from the early 20th century, NiMAC (est.1994) is Cyprus’ oldest and largest contemporary art centre. Established in partnership with the Lefkosia Municipality and the Pierides Foundation, its restoration was awarded the Europa Nostra Award. Since its opening, NiMAC has organised and presented important exhibitions, many in collaboration with international art institutions, such as Miro of Majorca, Picasso the Engraver, Cyprus in Venice, etc. The centre also runs workshops for children and adults, conferences, cinema festivals, etc. Its facilities include the Demetrios Z. Pierides History of Art Library with over 30,000 books, the Cyprus Visual Arts Archive in collaboration with the Cyprus Chamber of Fine Arts, a shop and a bar-restaurant. 19 Palias Ilektrikis Street / Tel: +357 22 797400 web: www.nimac.org.cy / Open only during exhibitions: Wed–Sat 10:00–20:00, Sun 10:00–18:00, Mon & Tue closed The Postal Museum Photos: Courtesy of the Museums. The photo of the Ethnological Museum – House of Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios was used with the permission of the Director of the Department of Antiquities, Republic of Cyprus.
31 Hambis Municipal Printmaking Museum and the reception room, which is decorated with impressive wood carvings. In 1988, the House received the Europa Nostra Award. 20 Patriarchou Grigoriou Street Tel: +357 22 305316 / Opening hours: Tue–Fri 08:30–15:30, Sat 09:30–16:30 Centre of Visual Arts and Research (CVAR) An old inn, later functioning as a flour mill, was transformed in 2014 into CVAR, a cultural and research space dedicated to Cyprus and its neighbours. Home to the Costas and Rita Severis collections, it includes more than 1,000 works of art by artists travelling to Cyprus during the 18th–20th centuries, antique Cypriot and European costumes, embroideries and textiles as well as a library and research centre with over 20,000 volumes. CVAR also hosts workshops and seminars as well as other activities. 285 Ermou Street / Tel: +357 22 300994 web: cvar.severis.org / Opening hours: Tue–Sun 09:30–17:00 (From 15 October to 15 May), Mon–Sat 09:30–17:00 (From 15 May to 15 October) Hambis Municipal Printmaking Museum Hambis Tsangaris Municipal Printmaking Museum Nicosia (est. 2014) is a collaboration between the Municipality of Lefkosia and the Hambis Printmaking School-Museum in the district of Lemesos, founded by the celebrated Cypriot printmaker Hambis Tsangaris. The museum displays over 3,000 original works, covering every printmaking technique by local and international artists from the 16th century onwards. Its archive includes rare books, maps, tools, plates, photographs and documents. Hambis Tsangaris received the European Heritage Award / Europa Nostra Award in 2023. 55–59 Ammochostou Street / Tel: +357 22 496930 web: hambismuseum.cy / Opening hours: Wed– Sat 10:00–13:00 (until 13:30 from May to July), 15:00–17:00 (until 17:00 from May to July), closed in August House of Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios CVAR
The Pancyprian Gymnasium Museums The Pancyprian Gymnasium Museums, housed in a 12-room building, present the history of Cyprus and of the school. The collections include the Museum of the Pancyprian Gymnasium’s history, archaeological and coin collections, old maps and weapons, a Natural History Museum and an art gallery featuring works by renowned painters who once taught or studied at the school. The collections are completed by the full-length sculpture of the “Blessing Christ,” a unique example of Gothic Art. Agiou Ioannou & Thiseos Streets / Tel: +357 22 466014 web: lyk-pagkyprion-lef.schools.ac.cy Opening hours: Mon, Tue, Thu, and Fri 09:30– 14:45, Wed 09:30–16:00, Sat 09:30–12:30 Archbishop Makarios III Foundation Cultural Centre: Byzantine Museum & Art Gallery Next to the Archbishop’s Palace, the Archbishop Makarios III Cultural Foundation houses both the Byzantine Museum and the Art Gallery. The Byzantine Museum hosts the richest Byzantine Art collection in Cyprus, with approximately 230 icons from the 9th to the 19th centuries, alongside examples of Cypriot Byzantine minor art, including sacred relics, vessels and vestments. Among its most notable exhibits are the famous mosaics from the Church of Panagia Kanakarias in the village of Lythragkomi, dating back to the 6th century, which were repatriated after being stolen from the occupied part of the island. The Art Gallery is home to a distinguished European Art Collection, acquired in 1963 by Archbishop Makarios III. It displays work from the 15th to the 19th century, featuring landscapes to portraits, Western Art, Greece WALLED LEFKOSIA MUSEUMS with emphasis on works inspired by the Greek revolution of 1821 and landscapes, as well as 20th century Cypriot Art. Moreover, the gallery hosts exhibitions and educational programmes. Plateia Arch. Kyprianou (Square) / Tel: +357 22 430008 web: www.makariosfoundation.org.cy Opening hours: Tue–Sat 09:30–17:00 Folk Art Museum Located on the ground floor of the Old Archbishop’s Palace, the Gothic-style building dates back to the 15th century. The museum (est. 1937) boasts more than 5,000 items showcasing Cypriot folk art from the 19th and early 20th centuries. Byzantine Museum The Pancyprian Gymnasium Museums Byzantine Museum & Art Gallery SPEL photo: Νicos Louka
33 Exhibits include embroidery, lace, costumes, pottery, metalwork, basketry, folk paintings, leatherwork and woodcarving. Important artworks are the 19th-century door of Agios Mamas Church, referenced in Nobel laureate George Seferis’ poem “Little Things of Cyprus” and the paintings “The Wedding” by M. Kashialos, “Karpasitissa” by I. Kissonergis, and “Lapithos” by A. Stylianou. Plateia Arch. Kyprianou (Square) Tel: +357 22 432578 / web: www.cypriotstudies.org Opening hours: Mon 10:00–14:00, Tue–Fri 9:00– 16:00, Sat 09:00–13:00 Fairytale Museum Located in a preserved mansion near Pafos Gate, Fairytale Museum, established in 2017, celebrates the cultural heritage of fairy tales, myths, legends and traditions from Cyprus and around the world. It is an interactive space where children and adults explore the art of storytelling through creative exhibits, such as hidden pathways, miniature figurines, and many more. The Museum also hosts book presentations and workshops. 32–34 Granikou Street / Tel: +357 22 376522 web: www.fairytalemuseum.org.cy / Opening hours: Sat 10:00–14:00 State Gallery of Contemporary Art (SPEL) Designed by the modernist architect Stavros Economou, the building is located opposite Pyli Ammochostou (Famagusta Gate) and housed the Lefkosia Co-operative Credit Company (SPEL) from 1965. It was later acquired and redesigned to become the gallery’s second venue, which opened in 2019. Today, SPEL presents exhibitions and events focusing on modern and contemporary art, architecture and design. 73 Ammochostou Street / Tel: +357 22 479600 Call for opening hours Folk Art Museum Fairytale Museum SPEL
CULTURE WALKS ART IN THE CITY Lefkosia within the Walls has long served as a muse for artists, with its historic streets and hidden corners sparking creativity.
35 Following the Turkish invasion and occupation in 1974, Lefkosia within the Walls was largely abandoned. In recent years, however, it has experienced a vibrant revival, emerging as a hub of creativity as artists have opened their workshops and studios. An additional initiative was represented by a recent project, Creative Nicosia, which was funded by the European Union, providing grants and funds to creators within the walled city. Today, artists’ studios stand beside carpentry workshops, glassmakers, blacksmiths, and copper repair shops. Craftspeople and artists coexist, each shaping their own craft and form of art. Around Plateia Dimarchou Lellou Dimitriadi (Square) An art walk around the city within the Walls can start at Plateia Dimarchou Lellou Dimitriadi (Square). The building that now houses the CYENS Centre of Excellence is surrounded by shops owned by craftsmen, such as Panikos Pilis, who has been selling plumbing supplies and various tools here since 1960. Next to him, there used to be a workshop that repaired printing machines for 47 years. Right behind, a narrow path leads to Lidinis Street, which was once lined with artisans’ workshops. Today, these spaces have been restored and await young creators and professionals to transform them into workplaces. It is also worth mentioning that, in 2024, a walking photographic exhibition organised by the Press and Information Office, celebrating 20 years of Cyprus’ membership of the European Union, took place on Lidinis Street. Heading along Tempon Street and NiMAC, the road leads to Pentadaktylou Street. Craftsmen have been based here for years, many of whom were forced to relocate their Street art in Old Lefkosia Plateia Dimarchou Lellou Dimitriadi (Square) Lidinis Street
CULTURE WALKS shops from the part of Lefkosia that is now occupied following the Turkish invasion of 1974. Bars and cafés alongside them bring new energy to the neighbourhood, breathing fresh life into the old city. Along Ermou Street Pentadaktylou Street intersects with Ermou Street, much of which lies within the Buffer Zone. Once Lefkosia’s busiest commercial street, the non-occupied part has since been revitalised. This street, which leads to the beautiful Pyli Ammochostou (Famagusta Gate), is one of the city’s most enchanting areas. Artists and creators have long established their studios here. They welcome visitors and keep their doors open so that people can see them working on their creations in their workshops on a daily basis. Handmade stories At number 272E, there’s “Souzana Petri Crafts”. Petri is a Cypriot ceramicist and metalworker who specialises in preserving and reviving the ancient history and traditions of Cyprus. Across the street, “Vagabond Handcrafted”, based on a handmade doll workshop, also showcases the work of artisans from Greece and Cyprus. The art of clay and ceramics is thriving in this part of town, and just as our Cypriot ancestors once did, the artists here bring this craft into the present. Further down the road, where Ektoros Street becomes an extension of Ermou Street, at numbers 24–26, Djovanna (Vania) Serghiou Souroulla, works with clay in her studio. “In the old days, the raw materials used to come from the now occupied Lapithos,” she says, working on her potter’s wheel, creating mugs, candle holders, vases, and other beautiful objects. A few steps away, at number 47, Elia Neophytou at Studio Kuza mainly uses clay to create ceramics, from sculptural vases to functional objects. On Glass and Metal At the end of Ermou Street, before it branches into Ektoros and Ammochostou Streets, Sotiris Sevastides has been creating interesting artworks in his “Metamorfosis Art” workshop for thirteen years. His works have been sold and “travelled” worldwide. He creates them by taking once-useless objects, such as bicycle saddles, screws, or hammer heads, and reshaping them into imaginative metal sculptures. As he says, “I don’t recycle, I transform” – a nod to the workshop’s name, Metamorfosis, the Greek word for transformation. Just a few steps away, once you enter Stavros Kofteros’ workshop, glass takes centre stage! A once aircraft mechanic is reviving the craft of glassmaking in his studio on Ammochostou Street, creating glassworks – “transparent sculptures”, as he calls them. These pieces are the result of years of research and experimentation. As he mentions, glassmaking has a long history on the island Atelier 301 Photos: Stefanos Kouratzis
37 dating back to the 14th century BC. In fact, Cyprus was one of the countries where this form of art was born. Ask him, and he will tell you the story about how ancient Roman glassware unearthed in Cyprus in the mid-19th century by Luigi Palma de Cesnola inspired the renowned jeweller Louis Comfort Tiffany to create a type of glass he named “Chypriote Glass” at the beginning of the 20th century. Nearby, the art of jewellery is showcased by the talented designer-jeweller and micro-sculptor Maria Kotsoni, who draws inspiration from Cyprus, archaeology, philosophy, travel, and the modern world. Galleries etc. Art galleries, such as “Is Not Gallery” and “Garage Art Space”, “The Center of Visual Arts and Research” (CVAR), as well as event spaces, are also based here. This draws more and more people to the old city on days when exhibitions and events are taking place. The Hambis Tsangaris Printmaking Museum and the State Gallery of Contemporary Art – SPEL on Ammochostou Street reinforce the area’s artistic character. As you wander around Pyli Ammochostou (Famagusta Gate), you will soon realise that creativity is not confined to the main streets, but can be found in the alleys and hidden corners. After all, Lefkosia’s Walls invite you to wander around, as a place of inspiration and creativity for countless centuries! The art of clay Vania Serghiou Souroulla Municipal Council Meeting Room & Event Hall at Lefkosia Town Hall To Yalourgeio
The Turkish invasion of 1974 On 15 July 1974, life on the island of Cyprus changed forever. A coup staged by the Athens’ junta against the elected government of President Makarios served Turkey as a pretext to invade Cyprus on 20th July, violating International Law and the Charter of the United Nations (UN). The invasion was carried out in two phases, and ever since Turkey illegally occupies over 37% of the territory of the Republic of Cyprus. As a result, according to the Cyprus Statistical Service (CYSTAT), about 200,000 Greek Cypriots were displaced and became refugees in their own homeland. In addition, many soldiers and civilians were killed, thousands of Greek Cypriots were arrested and held in concentration camps in Cyprus by Turkish soldiers and paramilitaries, and more than 2,000 prisoners of war were illegally transferred and held in prisons in Turkey. Some of them are still missing to this day. Moreover, the rich cultural heritage of the occupied part of the island has suffered considerable damage. Many monuments and churches were vandalised, and precious icons and relics were destroyed, lost or illegaly sold, some of which were later recovered after lengthy legal battles. By the end of 1975, most Turkish Cypriots living in areas controlled by the Government of the Republic of Cyprus had also moved to the territory occupied by the Turkish army, following Turkey’s coercive policy. Since the Turkish invasion of 1974, Lefkosia remains divided, a city still marked by war and its enduring scars. The Green Line LEFKOSIA: A DIVIDED EUROPEAN CITY Watercolour: Katerina Attalidou (Press and Information Office). Photos: Stefanos Kouratzis
39 The Green Line Since 1974, Cyprus remains divided, with the UN-controlled buffer zone, also known as the Green Line, separating the areas controlled by the Government of the Republic of Cyprus and the Turkish-occupied areas of the island. This makes Cyprus the only European Union member state still divided due to foreign military occupation. The Green Line stretches for 186 kilometres across the island, but nowhere is its impact more striking than in Lefkosia. As one walks through the neighbourhoods of Lefkosia within the Walls, encounters barrels, sandbags, soldiers at guard posts, and, just beyond the barbed wire, a city in ruins, with bombed-out houses and shops. The Lady of the Green Line In the Agios Kassianos area, near Pyli Ammochostou (Famagusta Gate), on Axiotheas Street, lived a symbol of bravery: Katina Papadopoulou, known as “Kyra tis Prasinis Grammis” (The Lady of the Green Line), a name given to her by the renowned Greek writer Freddy Germanos. According to her daughter, Filitsa, Katina refused to abandon her home when the Turkish invasion of 1974 took place, even as her neighbourhood – and the entire island – was in the midst of chaos and destruction. She stood tall and proud, like a motherly figure, offering moral support to the soldiers defending the area, tending to the wounded, and providing them with food, despite having little to spare. Her house was used by the National Guard, as it had a telephone, and, being in an advantageous position, was of strategic importance. Katina Papadopoulou passed away peacefully on 29 December 1990, at the age of 74. A sight which serves as a constant reminder that our island remains under military occupation. A striking contrast is the warmth and hospitality of the people living just a few metres away from the Green Line. They share stories of the 1974 invasion, which unfolded a few metres away from their doorsteps.
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